Growing up, I gladly jumped out of bed every Sunday at the early hour of 7 a.m. to join my mom on her weekly errands. Those mornings included trips to the grocery store, the butcher, and planning meals for the week. My mom, my babushka, and I piled into my mom’s car and drove to the markets together. I remember those outings with great affection.
I sat in the front seat and listened to the lively conversation between my mom and babushka. My mom would chatter in Yiddish and Russian about the dramas with clients, disagreements with her sister, and other stories that had us laughing. I loved feeling included — like one of the grown-ups — and quietly poking fun at them. Those car rides bridged three generations and left a warm, lasting impression.
During those shopping trips my mom taught me how to choose the best produce and cuts of meat: how to spot ripe tomatoes and sweet pineapples; how to pick the right marbled beef for a pot roast and the perfect pork for shish kebab. She showed me how to plan meals for the week on a budget. Mom seemed to run our household effortlessly, even while wagging a finger at my brother and me whenever we bickered.
The most special Sundays were when my mom made her famous crepes — countless thin pancakes infused with vanilla and orange zest, both fluffy and tender. She mixed them by eye, using only a whisk and a frying pan, and always shared the first crepe with me and babushka so we could decide on the flavorings. Within half an hour my brother would trudge downstairs with his hair still gelled from the night before, and my dad would return from walking the dog. We’d gather around the table and eat crepes with jam and Russian-style cottage cheese. My mom usually ate just one crepe and spent the rest of the meal listening to our chatter over a steaming cup of tea, always ready with a witty anecdote. I still hear that laughter echoing in the corners of that house.
After my mom passed away, I tried to recreate those crepes and, more importantly, those moments. At first it felt impossible, and I stopped making crepes altogether. Years later, culinary school required me to master the French crepe. Learning the technique brought back my mom’s presence — I could almost feel her beside me. My French chef smiled and encouraged me, and when I filled a crepe with flavored ricotta and fresh berries for my classmates, I saw the same delight cross their faces that I remembered from home.
Since then I have made these stuffed crepes for catering events and clients, always using my mother’s approach. Now I make them for my little one and watch her eat quietly, smiling — a new generation of memories in the making.
Now it’s your turn. Start with the batter. Combine sugar, flour, and salt in a large bowl. In another bowl whisk together the eggs, milk, and melted butter. Gradually add the egg mixture to the flour mixture, whisking to avoid lumps. Stir in orange juice and vanilla extract. Refrigerate the batter for 30–45 minutes to relax the gluten and let the flavors meld.
While the batter rests, make the cheese filling. In a bowl combine ricotta, cream cheese, the lightly beaten egg, orange zest, lemon zest, sugar, and a pinch of salt. Mix until smooth and set aside.
Heat an 8-inch crepe pan over medium-high heat. Melt a small amount of butter in the pan so there’s a thin layer bubbling on the surface. Pour a ladle of batter into the center and quickly swirl to spread it thinly and evenly across the pan. Cook until the edges turn golden, about 1–2 minutes. For rolled crepes you only need to cook one side. If the edges dry out, reduce the heat. Taste the first crepe and adjust seasoning if needed. Stack finished crepes carefully as you go.
Place a crepe white side up on a flat surface. Spoon about two tablespoons of the ricotta mixture near the center. Fold the crepe in half over the filling, then fold the sides in, forming a small neat parcel — like a mini burrito.
If you want to prepare these ahead of time, freeze them at this stage. When ready, defrost and lightly pan-fry to reheat and seal, or place them in a preheated 375°F oven in an oven-safe pan until warmed through. Finish with a dusting of powdered sugar and fresh berries for a sweet, chewy treat. Share with friends — or keep them all for yourself.
My Mom’s Crepes All Rolled Up
Ingredients
- Crepes
- 1/2 cup water
- 1 cup milk
- 3 large eggs
- 5 tablespoons butter, melted
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 3 tablespoons sugar
- 1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
- 2 teaspoons vanilla
- 1 teaspoon lemon zest
- Filling
- 3 oz cream cheese
- 1 (15-ounce) container ricotta cheese
- 1 large egg, lightly beaten
- 2 teaspoons orange zest
- 2 tablespoons orange juice
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 3 tablespoons sugar
Instructions
- Combine sugar, flour, and salt in a large bowl. In a separate bowl whisk eggs, milk, and melted butter. Gradually add the egg mixture to the dry ingredients, whisking to avoid lumps. Stir in orange juice and vanilla. Chill the batter for 30–45 minutes.
- Prepare the filling: mix ricotta, cream cheese, the beaten egg, orange and lemon zest, sugar, vanilla, and a pinch of salt until smooth. Set aside.
- Heat an 8-inch crepe pan over medium-high heat and coat lightly with butter. Pour a ladle of batter into the center and quickly swirl to form a thin crepe.
- Cook until the edges are golden, about 1–2 minutes. For rolled crepes, cook only on one side. Taste the first crepe and adjust seasoning if needed. Stack crepes as you finish them.
- Place a crepe white side up and spoon about two tablespoons of filling onto it. Fold the crepe in half, then fold the sides over to make a neat parcel.
- To finish, either pan-fry briefly to seal and warm, or bake in a 375°F oven in an oven-safe pan until heated through.
- Serve sprinkled with powdered sugar and fresh berries.
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Originally published January 15th 2014